On this beach Christopher Columbus's priest said the first Catholic Mass on the American mainland; an on-the-lam O. Henry (embezzlement) wrote "Cabbages and Kings"; and, oh yeah, Ollie North used to kick it with the contras at Bahia Bar, just up the road. But you're here to windsurf sparkling Trujillo Bay, crisscrossing the wakes of Garifuna fishermen - descendants of the survivors of a Nigerian slave ship that ran aground in 1635 - in their hollowed-out cayucos. Before the sun sets hustle out to the east side of town for a long soak in the natural aguas calientes while you sip Nacionals so cold they make your teeth hurt. Then head farther up the beach to Barrio Cristales, the Garifuna neighborhood, for punta, the globally trendy local reggae. Stay at the quiet, clean, and reasonable Hospedaje Lilian, or for a few dollars more try the Villa Brinkley (known locally as the Hotel Peggy) up the hill. [$70; Villa Brinkley]