Lesser Belgian beers hammer the tongue with cloying flavors reminiscent of fruitcake. Not so with the remarkably full-spectrum Taras Boulba, a Belgian-style pale ale that, at 4.5 percent ABV, is only a smidgen stronger than a Coors Light but crackles with complex layers of peppery spice atop a mellow, grassy, and pleasantly sweet body.

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