Grilling is all about meat, but every plateful of hot protein begs for something cold, crunchy, and fresh, for contrast.

• 12 cups thinly sliced green cabbage (about one large head)
• 1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped fresh cilantro (stems and all)
• 2 tsp coarse sea salt
• 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

For the dressing
• 1/2 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
• 4 tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice
• 6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed

Step one
Toss cabbage and cilantro together in a big bowl.

Step two
In a separate, smaller bowl, whisk together the lime juice, orange juice, and olive oil. Keep the cabbage, dressing, and salt and pepper all separate until just before serving.

Step three
When ready to serve, combine all and toss (do this final step too early and the salt will pull water out of the cabbage, making for a watery slaw). Taste a forkful to see if it needs any more oil, citrus juice, or salt.