"This is the first clear spirit that I've ever seen anticipation build around," says Cannon. That's because distiller Chris Weld's Ethereal gin – like different ages of a whiskey – is an ever-changing liquid. "The gin has a huge botanical list, but Chris lists the content of each botanical as somewhere between five and 25 kilos per batch." That means that without needing extra approval from TTB (the government agency responsible for regulating the alcohol trade), Weld is able to pump up certain botanicals and mute others in each and every batch of gin he makes. How to tell the difference between batches? The label, like the gin's ingredients, stays the same, but its color does not. "The only common theme between each batch is that they're all phenomenal," says Cannon. And because the only thing consistent about Ethereal is its excellence, you should play mixologist and experiment with some classic cocktails – suspenders and ironic mustache not required.[$34/750ml; berkshiremountaindistillers.com]