The 35 Best Climbing Spots in America

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The West: Indian Creek
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Noah Clayton / Getty Images31/35

The West: Indian Creek

Indian Creek’s Wingate sandstone cliffs offer the best splitter cracks in the country, and there’s almost an equal number of four-star arêtes. Almost entirely a trad climbing crag, the Creek can be dangerous for novices: soft stone, hard landings, and a tendency for poorly place gear to fail means you should proceed with caution, especially if you’re not used to sandstone crack climbing. “Indian Creek is one of the top crack climbing areas in America, and certainly the best for perfecting your splitter crack technique,” says Hunter. “It’s more accessible than Zion, and the routes are less committing. There’s a reason people go back to Indian Creek every winter.”

Closest Town: Moab, Utah
Grade Range: 5.6 – 5.15
Notable Routes: 1,094
Classics: Bunny Slope (5.9), Jolly Rancher (5.10), Pente (5.11-), Scarface (5.11b), Coyne Crack (5.12a), Learning to Fly (5.13)
When to Visit: February-April, September-November

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