The 35 Best Climbing Spots in America

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The West: Joe’s Valley
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Visit Utah30/35

The West: Joe’s Valley

Spread out along three hillsides on the eastern edge of the Manti-La Sal National Forest, the skin-friendly red sandstone boulders at Joe’s are some of the best in Utah, and there are many more rocks in the area that haven’t been developed for climbing. Camping is free, approaches are almost always under 10 minutes, and the routes range from powerful, dynamic overhangs to delicate, technical faces. The best climbs are V5 and above, but the flat, safe landing zones make projecting less intimidating than at areas like Horse Pens 40. “Boulderers are known for keeping the best spots a secret, but Joe’s Valley got noticed about 15 years ago for its tough problems and isolation,” says Potter. “More and more, serious boulderers are starting to visit Joe’s.”

Closest Town: Orangeville, Utah
Grade Range: V0 – V14
Notable Routes: 429
Classics: Buoux Crack (V1), Michelangelo (V3), Self Service (V4), Rug Rat (V5), Planet of the Apes (V6), The Flu (V8)
When to Visit: February-May

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