Beantown’s Cool Outlier
Jamaica Plain/ Boston, MA
Jamaica plain is a weird place, but it’s a good weird: an eclectic, humming neighborhood where its triple-decker-house-lined streets out-grit any Southie block, yet the Queen Annes near the Jamaica Pond reflect the neighborhood’s country past; Dominican kids run in the streets alongside yuppies returning from work; and even two decades after its rebirth it’s still viewed by some as undesirable, the last four stops on the still-dangerous Orange Line.
The reality is that J.P. was one of the first Boston neighborhoods to gentrify, nearly 20 years ago, but, because of its inability to coalesce into a Good Will Hunting stereotype, it remains disguised as a fringe ‘hood. This may have something to do with its reputation for big-city crime statistics, but it also owes a lot to a community that fiercely fights off chain-store development. (A proposed Kmart got beat back a decade ago.)
So while it may not be the obvious choice, it is the locals’ choice. In 1988, Jim Koch chose Germania Street for his new Samuel Adams brewery, and Doyle’s, a pub and restaurant of legendary repute, has been right on Washington Street since 1882. A huge mural on its far wall depicts every famous Bostonian who has raised a pint there, including a young Ted Kennedy. You can actually walk between Doyle’s and the Sam Adams brewery along the Southwest Corridor, with its biking and running trails that roughly follow the Orange Line, the skyline always visible just above the trees. The trail is one of the city’s best-kept secrets and a beautiful walk in the summer. Whenever traffic is bad — and in Boston, the traffic’s always bad — it’s the most relaxing way to get to work.
In a city built on history, Jamaica Plain holds tradition dear but refuse to conform. If that just so happens to keep the Hollywood location scouts away, it just means the neighborhood has at least another 10 good years left.
-Paul Kix
Median Home Price: $422,600
Cost of Living Compared to Rest of U.S.: 58% higher
Sunny Days Per Year: 201
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Green Living on the Grid
Five Sisters/ Burlington, VT
The advantage to living in Five Sisters is that you’re near the action of this four-college town without being in it. 8 am: Wake up with a sweaty yoga class at Bikram Yoga Burlington on Pine, then pick up a coffee and local listings rag Seven Days at Speeder and Earl’s. 10 am: Head to the farmers market in City Hall Park, passing quaint bungalows, Cape Cods, and a smattering of Sears kit houses with welcoming front porches and backyards big enough for a vegetable garden. 12 pm: Spot young execs playing Frisbee with woodworkers as you cruise the lakefront on your way to rent a kayak or sailboat at the Lake Champlain Community Sailing Center. 2 pm: Grab your bike, meet friends at UVM, and pedal south for a 60-mile round-trip over Ap Gap, one of the Northeast’s most challenging mountain passes. 7 pm: End up back in town for organic pizza at Bite Me on St. Paul.
-Berne Broudy
Median Home Price: $217,300
Cost of Living Compared to Rest of U.S. 9% higher
Sunny Days Per Year: 159
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Small-Town Vibe in the Big Apple
Cobble Hill/ Brooklyn, NY
When my girlfriend and I walk to the vegetable stand a few blocks from our apartment in Cobble Hill, we invariably bump into a person or couple we know. We enjoy this. Not the encounter, but the fact that it’s limited to one.
I’ve often heard residents in this part of Brooklyn compare it to small-town living, and I suppose that’s because the area — a pretty grid of tree-lined residential streets containing three commercial avenues packed with restaurants (trendy, but also an Atomic Wings) and shops (boutiques, but also a Target nearby) — offers the kind of neighborhood flavor that’s often absent in urban America.
But the small-town analogy totally misses the real gift of living here. In a small town everyone knows your business, there are two or three restaurants, and the guy at the hardware store knows whether your walls are plaster or drywall. Anonymity is a fantasy. The joy of Cobble Hill, and nearby Carroll Gardens, is that almost anywhere else this collective area would be a city unto itself — not a big city, but a city nevertheless.
So while I recognize many of the faces I pass, I haven’t met them, and I certainly don’t have to stop and make small talk with them when I really just want to get home to watch the Mets lose. Tony over at Tony’s Hardware has no idea what my walls are made of, and even though I have been getting advice on malbecs and aglianicos from Judy at the wine store practically every single night for five years, I have no idea if she recognizes me. I love that.
-David Katz
Median Home Price: $652,700
Cost of Living Compared to Rest of U.S.: 56% higher
Sunny Days Per Year: 232
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Four More Neighborhoods
Washington, DC
The Atlas District and the surrounding H Street corridor in Northeast DC is one of the city’s oldest commercial districts, but the 1968 riots left it in ruins. Today affordable housing, a farmers market, and a slew of hip drinking haunts are drawing comparisons to the Northwest’s U Street of five years ago.
Philadelphia, PA
Northern Liberties is all but devoid of the beer-brewing, textile, and ceramic industries that once thrived here, but in their place is a lively center for local artists and musicians. Minutes from downtown, plenty of gastropubs, art galleries, and music venues nestle between traditional row houses and historic properties.
Portland, ME
Without the tourist traffic (or kitsch) of Old Port, and away from the mansions of the West End, Munjoy Hill stands out in Maine’s biggest city. Resting on its perch overlooking the city and Casco Bay, it’s one of the most ethnically diverse neighborhoods in the state. It’s also gone from blue-collar to green scene with an explosion of locally owned restaurants and shops.
Cincinnati, OH
Northside, five minutes from downtown Cincinnati, brings a small-town look and mentality into the city, with its old-fashioned houses, farmers markets, independent shops, and strong community activism. It further sets itself apart with two hilltop nature preserves.
*All statistics according to Bestplaces.net
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This article originally appeared in the June 2009 issue of Men’s Journal.
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May 28th, 2009 at 11:57 am
H Street in DC is definitely “Up and coming”. There is a hint of great bars and restaurants as well as a lot of renovations on the homes. Capital Hill is pushing north, and with the development around the NY Ave metro stop, this will be the next “place to be” in DC.
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May 28th, 2009 at 2:16 pm
Fuck we hate that “Atlas District” moniker.
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May 28th, 2009 at 2:55 pm
h street is really called NOMA
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May 30th, 2009 at 10:20 am
kck,
actually “NOMA” is short for “north of Massachussetts Avenue” and is a specific corridor north of Union Station (and north of the westernmost side of Mass Ave NE)
The neighborhood encompassing H Street NE has been called Near Northeast, recently dubbed the Atlas District (due to the beuatifully renovated Atlas Theater in the 1300 block), and has also been called “Capitol Hill North” by overzealous realtors.
I kind of like Old City, myself. I think that’s the proper name. Someone with more knowledge of DC history, please enlighten us.
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June 6th, 2009 at 1:01 pm
JP is a great place and one of the best places is THe milky Way & Bella Luna! Consider that location as the hub of all activity in Jamaica Plain! http://www.bellalunajp.com
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June 6th, 2009 at 1:11 pm
jp and my job are the only things keeping me in boston. If i spend too much time out of the neighborhood i begin to pine for NYC and SF, but whenever i’m a homebody i’m satisfied. My wife calls it “the midwest of boston” because the people are so freaking nice, even the drivers– just thankfully not as conservative. Great markets, restaurants, cafes and bars, diverse and friendly people, and a vibrant arts and music scene all swaddled in a blanket of Olmsted parks. Who could ask for anything more? I miss being closer to the ocean, but Jamaica Pond is a worthy substitute and I don’t miss the tourists one bit.
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Matt Reply:
June 8th, 2009 at 4:29 pm
Closer to the ocean?? Dude, JP is like 3 miles from the ocean.
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pierce Reply:
June 8th, 2009 at 4:33 pm
of course! but i mean relative to other neighborhoods in this city. JP is the first place i’ve lived in Boston that i couldn’t actually smell the ocean, where the tides were played as much of a part of the day as the sky.
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December 9th, 2010 at 10:22 pm
Your article makes me want to travel to all of these places. Great read. Thank you! I found more interesting facts on these neighborhoods at: http://www.homefacts.com/
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February 24th, 2011 at 11:31 am
Having lived in both JP and Northern Liberties, I can attest both neighborhoods have a community feel albeit with the ever looming balance of gentrification, which has brought some great new places, but also risks losing what made each special in the first place. That said, both still a little rough around the edges, JP had an early evening triple shooting inside a Center Street restaurant in December, NoLibs still has the occasional mugging.
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March 11th, 2011 at 2:32 pm
I’ve visited the Five Sisters area in Burlington, VT on a couple occasions and have always had a blast! I agree that it is a bit of a College town, but still has great shopping, bars and restaurants. You can find some additional info here: http://www.areavibes.com/burlington-vt/city-guide/.
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