Men's Journal

A cigar factory in Pinar del Rio. The province relies on tobacco farming, with Pinar del Río producing 70% of Cuba's crop, used to make the cigars that are so prized overseas. Photo credit: Courtesy Cuba Tourist Board

Want to see the island before its character is gone? Go now. Just be sure to plan extra carefully if you’re coming from the States.

By Steven Russell

Despite the huge rallies and windy speeches commemorating the 50th anniversary of the end of the Cuban revolution, the writing is on the wall: With Fidel on his deathbed, little brother Raúl taking free-market baby steps, and a changing of the guard in the White House, relaxed travel restrictions are inevitable. A few intrepid U.S. citizens already puff Cohibas with Europeans and Canadians, but when every American can hop a direct flight to ­Havana, the island’s timeless colonial cities, stunning beaches, and untrammeled adventure outposts will fall to modern tourism. If you go, don’t miss Old Havana’s paladares (restaurants in private homes), like Omar González’s tucked-away Gringo Viejo, whose delicious stewed chicken with green olives and festive bar turn any meal into an evening’s entertainment. Then head out of town for uncrowded adventure.

Where to go:

Las Salinas Lagoon
This immense wetland has been protected from commercial fishing since 1959, so hooking big bonefish is easy. Permit required (Oficina Parque Nacional, 53-45-98-7249).

—-

Vinales Valley
Someday Viñales will be a major stop on the international rock-climbing circuit. For now, climbers scale mogotes, freestanding limestone mounds towering 1,000 feet above tobacco farms, in near solitude. Leave
time to visit nearby Cuevas de los Portales, the scenic cave that served as Che Guevara’s hideout.

—-

Playa Los Pinos
This beach in the Sabana-Camagüey archipelago is mostly deserted and tough to get to — but your reward is turquoise waters and confectioners’-sugar sand.

—-

Cienaga De Zapata National Park
One of only two places to see Crocodylus rhombifer, Cuba’s endangered crocodile famed for its freaky ability to leap out of the water. Keep your extremities inside the boat (Oficina Parque Nacional, 53-45-98-7249).

—-

Pico Turquino
The highest point in Cuba, where Fidel Castro gave CBS a famous interview in 1957 while leading his guerilla war from the mountains. The rugged eight-mile hike up to the summit (which boasts a bust of Cuban poet José Martí) delivers staggering views over the southern coast. Nearby is the historic town of Santiago de Cuba — a perfect spot for a post-hike mojito.

—-

Going Without Getting Arrested:

• If you’re not a researcher, a journalist, or other authorized visitor, you aren’t legally sanctioned to be in Cuba to begin with — so rule one is to avoid getting a passport stamp. (Otherwise you risk fines and jail time.) Cuban officials won’t stamp you, but some travelers advise offering border patrol officials at the gateway country a small tip (about $20) to spare the ink and ease re-entry to the U.S.

• Since flights to Cuba are illegal from the States, a third country has to be the point of departure. Mexico is the most common gateway, with daily flights from Cancún and Mexico City.

• Although Cuba is desperate for tourist revenue, U.S. dollars aren’t accepted, so exchange your dollars for pesos convertibles. Avoid a 10 percent exchange fee by first switching your U.S. dollars to Canadian dollars or Mexican pesos before hitting Cuba.

• Bringing back gifts isn’t recommended, but for the insistent, Cuban travel vets advise removing airline luggage tags and claim checks before entering immigration back home to avoid getting busted.

Print this article