Men's Journal

Aquavits Photo credit: photo by Michael Pirrocco

This caraway-infused Scandinavian liquor is worth a shot, or three.

By Rob Willey

It’s tough to be ambivalent about aquavit — you either love it or hate it, and that’s part of its charm. An aggressively spiced cousin to gin and vodka, this pungent Scandinavian spirit, pioneered by 15th-century Danes, leans heavily on the flavor of caraway, the seed that gives rye bread its distinctive taste, often with hints of cinnamon, dill, and fennel. Some aquavit is made from potatoes, some from grain. Sometimes it’s aged in oak, which softens the burn and gives it a golden hue. The best-known Norwegian brand, Linie, by tradition spends four months tooling up and down the Atlantic and Pacific on the deck of a ship, crossing the equator twice and mellowing as it bakes inside old sherry casks. In the past year or so, two U.S. distilleries have hopped into the game as well, turning out first-rate aquavits built for sipping, not shooting. Tradition dictates that you drink it ice-cold, quickly and repeatedly, but you can also sip it neat, like good vodka. Or, drink it with dinner. Perfect with rich foods, it acts as a second layer of seasoning, ideally suited to preserved meats and fishes, briny shellfish, and the strongest cheeses you can find. At Aquavit restaurant in New York, they serve it with a herring sampler and a cold beer chaser. Not a bad way to get your feet wet.
 

Four to try:

Linie Aquavit:
All that time this aquavit spends tossing around the ocean really does make a difference.This uncommonly elegant Norwegian liquor has a restrained kick of licorice and an endless finish. $35

Aalborg Akvavit:
A prime candidate for cold, speedy consumption, this Danish aquavit is sharp, with lots of rye and anise flavor. A less bracing alternative is Aalborg’s Jubilaeums Akvavit with dill and coriander. $20

House Spirits Krogstad Aquavit:
Portland distillers Lee Medoff and Christian Krogstad make their mellow, intricate aquavit with a rye base and a hint of star anise, which adds rich texture. $27

North Shore Distillery Aquavit: 
Made outside Chicago by a former chemical engineer, this funky, barrel-aged aquavit incorporates cinnamon, coriander, cardamom, and caraway, but it’s the cumin that grabs you. $35

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