DAY 2: “AMBASSADOR” HIRSCH
In the morning, as we drive through the city’s mud-soaked streets on our way to the airport, I’m sucked into the world outside the car window, completely separate from my own life. The young man with the hardened eyes walking alone, carrying his plastic water jug down a pebbled road, does not know who we are or where we came from. It is tempting to feel as though we do not belong here. But it was that kind of thinking, in the form of nonintervention by most of the world’s biggest players, that allowed the genocide to happen.
As we wait on the runway, Lyndsay points to a demolished plane nearby. Two months ago it crashed as it tried to take off, catching fire and killing 21 people. Gulp. From the air Goma looks bigger than I thought it was. Roofs crumbling from the ravages of time and neglect, dirt roads, and occasional fires pepper the landscape, and about 10 construction workers stand by the burnt and twisted remains of the crashed aircraft, slowly taking the pieces away. Beneath us now is a lush rain forest in the Mitumba Mountains, with titanic cone-shaped peaks jutting up from the trees. There are still ancient tribes of Pygmy down there, says Yao.
After two hours we land in Kindu, the capital of the Maniema province. We’re staying at a relatively nice guest compound, courtesy of the local Catholic church here, run by an exceedingly old man whom we all come to call simply “the father.” Provoked by Nabil’s insistence, we head out for a walk. The sight of us Westerners causes such a commotion, it’s as if the Beatles have arrived. The kids cluster around us, morphing into one giant being of enormous energy and tenacity. A 16-year-old boy selling bike parts sits on an old broken-down lawn chair, shaded by a generous tree. I can’t believe it, but he’s wearing a Marilyn Manson T-shirt. As we walk farther the crowd around us grows. A young man, perhaps 17, starts flirting with Liz, playfully at first — until he kisses her and pinches her ass. She pushes him off; Jimmie repeats a few times to the young man, “No, she’s married,” and we decide we better get back to the church. Liz, who before seemed downright fearless about charging into the jungle, now has the pause of someone who realizes she is no longer a removed spectator.
Today is a day of meetings. After we sit down with the province’s “governor at interim,” we meet with the “president of the delegation,” which is a bit awkward because he was under the impression that someone from the U.S. House of Representatives was with us. Oops. I’m introduced as an “Oxfam ambassador,” which is kind of embarrassing. If the guy from The Girl Next Door is the only public figure the people of Kindu can get to visit them, then what the fuck, right?
We cruise over to a United Nations compound and meet Ahmed Shariff, head of operations for the United Nations peacekeeping program in Maniema. Ahmed comes across not so much as a military commander as a professor, which, it turns out, he is: He left his position as a political science teacher at Penn for this job. He understands the broad issues that need to be addressed to develop the country. The biggest improvement would be to simply create functioning roads, which would allow more rapid development of trade. That would require paving more of the many dirt roads, rebuilding neglected ones, increasing security, and stopping illegal “tolls” imposed by the local militias. With its abundant minerals and timber, the DRC has the resources to be the most powerful country in all of Africa. But the constant violence and general disorganization keep it functioning at a basic, impoverished level. (Ahmed criticizes local politicians for not formulating programs when they run for office; instead it’s just a mad dash for power, then chaos.) Until those things change, foreign companies will be deterred from investing here.
Print this article
December 24th, 2008 at 6:57 pm
To Emile, the DRC, Men’s Journal — Thank you. Truley enlightend beyond my years.
[Reply]
December 26th, 2008 at 8:59 pm
It’s hideous how men can be with each other, the awful things we are capable of, and how we (the spectators) react to them. There’s an array of things a man can accomplish: the grim visions of the evil things that destroy this world, but there’s also the hope of improvement that can save it and ourselves. Excellent article, I hope in a few months I can do something meaningful for others as well.
[Reply]
December 28th, 2008 at 10:23 am
I am no relation to Jenny McCarthy but having made a few trips to Africa I am very aware of the poverty and all that goes with it and would like to add to her comment. Several things said in Emile’s article ring true.
The praise for women: They do everything and seem to be second class citizens if that. They need protection and health care. They need their society to change and protection and respect from their communities. I witnessed women (nurses?) going from house to house giving polio vaccinations to the children. Polio is rampant as well as other diseases. If you travel there get vaccinated. Do not drink the water.
The lack of roads: Even in the capitol of Kinshasa there are mostly rutted, dirt roads. Outlying roads are littered with wreckage, including the dead. Its unsafe to travel the roads at night.
The airports: Airplane wrecks are left in place and unserviceable planes are every where, maintenance is a mystery, your life is at risk. Never give your passport or medical vaccination card to anyone. Have an expeditor meet you at the airport to assist you though it and avoid taking a taxi, have someone arrange for a driver.
Infrastructure: I was told there are 13 turbines at the hydro electric power plant and only one of them is working, the other 12 are scavenged for parts. The railroad is mostly abandoned, everything I saw was rusted and unused.
I could say much more and I think of the people I met in Niger, Burkino Faso and the DRC all the time, especially the children. I’ll never forget the children. Also I will not forget that the people are hard working with very limited means and generous. One man literally gave me the shirt off his back.
For what its worth. In my opinion the people of Africa have been raped of everything: Their personal dignity and their rich resources by the colonial powers that took advantage of them, destroyed their cultures and then abandoned them to all kinds of suffering. Where Africa will evolve is anybody’s guess. I recommend investment in education, the infrastructure and health care similar to what took place after the second world war in the rehab of Japan and Europe. Someday I may return there and if so I hope my good intentions result in long term benefits to the Africans. In the meantime I’ll do what I can from here in the US.
[Reply]
January 7th, 2009 at 9:39 am
Emile I truly applaud you for this. Enlighten the world!
[Reply]
Abbie Ormsby Reply:
January 8th, 2009 at 8:39 pm
Yes, we can all applaud famous folks to give back, for it is important to share one’s good fortune with the rest of the world, isn’t it?
Some celebrities take (too) much for granted, it seems to me.
Hence, it is most key for them to KNOW that not everyone is as fortunate as they (are).
Emile Hirsch is a sensitive young man.
He THINKS, as well, meaning he doesn’t take on tasks lightly or frivolously.
He accepts movie roles with care & much forethought.
It appears as though the fellow also accepts charitable roles with the same thoughfulness.
And, he writes well, too doesn’t Emile?
This is one sharp actor who reads, loves & respects the written word.
Don’t sell his “pretty face” short!
He is no Jessica Simpson, let me tell you
Thanks to “Men’s Journal” for choosing to feature Emile Hirsch.
It was such a treat for his fans to see and read of this side of him. We always knew that Emile had charitable giving and service to mankind inside of him, apart from entertaining the world by acting in films of note
Angelina Jolie, MOVE OVER!
Sincerely,
– Abbie Ormsby
[Reply]
January 8th, 2009 at 8:27 pm
Emile, my dear,
ALL your fans, especially those of who post to http://www.emile-h.com, are inordinately proud of you for going to Africa and then enlightening the rest of us, about your adventure & education.
We think the WORLD of your charitable self and endeavours, proving that you are not just a pretty face who happens to act well!
Please do keep expanding, growing in this area, of charitably GIVING BACK. Noblesse Oblige is most important, nowadays. To whom much is given much more is expected, as they say …
Take care,
– Abbie Ormsby –
[Reply]
January 17th, 2009 at 9:50 am
Beautifully written.
[Reply]