So many celebrity wines are so easy to mock. It's bad enough that Train pollutes the airwaves; do you really want Train wine in your Riedel? Or how about having a glass endorsed by the Black Eyed Peas' Fergie – a red called Fergalicious? The name alone is enough to drive one to the fridge in search of a cold beer. But while it is fair to say that many celebrity wines are cynically conceived plonk, there are a few exceptions. It might surprise you to learn that one of the exceptions comes from arguably the two biggest names in the celebrity wine genre: Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt.

If you're a celebrity newshound – and who isn't? – you surely know that Brangelina bought a château in Provence several years ago, and you probably also recall that this lavish spread came replete with a vineyard. But you may not know what happened next: Jolie and Pitt teamed up with the Perrin family, who own the great Château de Beaucastel, which produces arguably the finest Châteauneuf-du-Pape on the market. The fruits of the Brangelina-Perrin collaboration hit the market a few months ago: It's a rosé called Miraval.

The first thing you'll notice is that the label is surprisingly small and discreet for a celebrity wine. The second thing you'll notice is the distinctive vessel: It looks more like a champagne bottle than a Provenςal rosé. And the third thing you'll discover is that the wine is really good. The 2012 Château Miraval ($24) shows delicious tart peach fruit on the palate, and while the wine is somewhat richer than a typical rosé, the richness is leavened by terrific acidity. It is a wine full of pleasure and charm, and is all the more impressive for being the debut vintage from Jolie, Pitt, and the Perrins. We eagerly await the sequels.