Why You Didn't Want to Go: Twenty percent of the Rwandan population was killed during the Rwandan Genocide. In the city of Kibuye by the shores of Lake Kivu, 21,00 people were slaughtered in two days in 1994.
Why You Want to Go Now: Kibuye is one of the most beautiful towns in Africa and the views of Lake Kivu from the foothills are breathtaking. Largely because the city has become a weekend retreat for Kigali-based NGO workers and Rwanda's small middle class, there are also lovely hotels, including the welcoming Cormoran Lodge. Bike trails lead around the lake and locals are welcoming to foreigners. It's hard to imagine that so much horror took place here. Meanwhile, Goma, located on the northern shore of Lake Kivu in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, remains hyper-violent and serves as a reminder of how horrible things can be – and for how long.