Never mind big waves or pro-tour showdowns – 500 surfers worldwide are out there chasing those thrills. The rest of us – 6 million or so – are into surfing for the reasons that Duane (an 'MJ' contributing editor) details here. There's the ride itself, sure – but also the mindless parking-lot banter, the guilty pleasure of all those wasted hours driving the coast looking for surf, and the long, quiet minutes between waves, when everybody else has left the water.
Powered By ZergNet
Style & Design 2014
Tech, Tools, Toys & the Hottest New Gear
Plus: When to Say No to Your Doctor
ON NEWSSTANDS NOW
Anthony Bourdain's Life Advice
The NFL's Pot Problem
Sign up to receive the Men’s Journal newsletter and special offers from MJ and its marketing partners.