Never mind big waves or pro-tour showdowns – 500 surfers worldwide are out there chasing those thrills. The rest of us – 6 million or so – are into surfing for the reasons that Duane (an 'MJ' contributing editor) details here. There's the ride itself, sure – but also the mindless parking-lot banter, the guilty pleasure of all those wasted hours driving the coast looking for surf, and the long, quiet minutes between waves, when everybody else has left the water.
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The Adventure Issue
Eight Trips That Take Your Further
Plus: The Toughest Agent in the NFL
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The Devil's Obstacle Course
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