Never mind big waves or pro-tour showdowns – 500 surfers worldwide are out there chasing those thrills. The rest of us – 6 million or so – are into surfing for the reasons that Duane (an 'MJ' contributing editor) details here. There's the ride itself, sure – but also the mindless parking-lot banter, the guilty pleasure of all those wasted hours driving the coast looking for surf, and the long, quiet minutes between waves, when everybody else has left the water.
The Pirate Looks Back
Keith Richards on fatherhood, Mick, and becoming an icon.
Plus: Violence Erupts on Mount Everest
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