Slitting open my first silver salmon, minutes from the water, to reveal its eggs, the only reasonable next move was to dig my fingers right in, scoop out a hefty slab of the orange spheres, hold them up against the deep blue sky, and slide them into my mouth. They popped between my teeth, releasing a cool, salty brine: the most pleasingly mild, sweet taste.
Credit: Peter Engelsted Jonasen / Getty Images
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