Although the days of massive tribes of bluefin tuna migrating north are receding as fast as the Devon Ice Cap, Johnny still fingered Bimini's Tuna Alley, a 15-mile strip of white sand starting west of Gun Cay, for producing as he says, "some of the most exciting fishing in the world. To be connected to one of these powerful fish is an unmatched experience in angling." In fact, it was in Alice Town where Johnny tied the knot (the wedding variety) at the hand of the late scripture-quoting bishop Bonefish Willie Duncombe, a fishing buddy of Ernest Hemingway.
Bimini, a mere 50 miles from the Florida coast, is known to many as "the fishing capital of the world" and hosts dozens of tournaments every year. But it's May and June when anglers, hoping to relive the area's glory days, come to tangle with torpedo-shaped bluefins that can weigh as much as 900 pounds and travel up to 43 miles per hour. It's like catching a BMW. [Offshore charters from $1,800; biggameclubbimini.com]