The next step

For new climbers, finger strength should come from spending time on the wall – adding isolated finger training prematurely will often lead to an injury. But once an intermediate climber's primary limiting factor is finger strength, hangboards offer targeted training and an easy at-home option. Hangboards like the classic Metolius Simulator ($80) come with great workouts included.

Key hangboard tips:

  • Always warm up before isolated finger training.
  • Always use an open-hand position (not using your thumb; knuckles never closing below 45 degrees).
  • Never passively hang – engage shoulders and slightly bend elbows.
  • Stop isolated finger training at the first sign of finger pain!