Food historians have written extensively about how the meat market tradition in the small towns of Central Texas helped create the state's barbecue culture. Cuts that didn't sell were smoked and sold ready to eat, and offcuts were ground into sausage. Unlike most of the Central Texas greats, which have evolved into barbecue-only joints, Prause hasn't diverged much from its 1890s market roots: You can eat well and bring some home with you. "This joint more than any other still clings to the meat-market aspect," Vaughn says, making it a necessary stop for the devout BBQ traditionalist. "Take in a fine smoked pork chop and some homemade smoked sausage, then grab a thick porterhouse for grilling on your way out."
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