Fruit doesn't have to be fruity.
Credit: Photograph by Toni Greaves

While vegetables get most of the attention at Natural Selection, chef Woo relies equally on the acidity and seasoning of fruit – such as the pomegranate, apple, and tart cherry in a recent endives and curly cress course. His cocktail list reflects this approach. "Most of our cocktails, like our food, have some kind of fruit," Woo says. "You have fruit flavor but not necessarily a strong one – so it's not a soft, frou-frou drink." That translates to the fig/bourbon duo of the Fireside or the pomegranate and peach of a Pretty Mess.

Natural Selection's Pretty Mess

• 1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses
• 1 1/2 oz Monopolowa vodka
• 3/4 oz freshly squeezed lime juice
• 3/4 oz peach schnapps
• A splash of simple syrup
• A float of dry/brut sparkling wine to finish

Shake moderately with ice. Serve in a chilled large-stemmed aperitif glass, with a wedge of lime.