Everyone loves a fluffy pile of scrambled eggs, but you may never have seen anything like the luxurious, creamy eggs this technique will produce. They're the texture of melting cheese, so rich you'll wonder if your tax rate is going up. Since eggs firm up as they get hot, the point of this method is to heat them so slowly and cook them evenly enough that you suspend them in a perfect state between liquid and solid. Their identity crisis is your silky, buttery reward.
Take your eggs out of the fridge 15 minutes or more before cooking them. (Not necessary, but it really speeds things up.) Beat the eggs, just enough to combine the yolks and whites, with a few generous pinches of salt.
Heat a heavy nonstick pan over medium heat. Make sure it's big enough to stir comfortably in, but small enough that the eggs won't spread out too thin; you could even try using a saucepan instead of a frying pan. Drop in 1 tbsp of butter for every 3 eggs. When the butter starts to foam, turn the heat down to low. Pour in the eggs and stir immediately with a heatproof rubber spatula.
Keep stirring in little circles all the way around the pan, making sure you swipe every inch. It'll look like nothing's happening. Keep doing this for a long time – about 10 minutes for every 6 eggs, but your time will probably vary.
Eventually, the eggs will thicken. When they look kind of like soft polenta – almost custardy, but not liquid – get them onto a plate and serve right away.
These eggs are great with toast and something fresh to balance the richness, like a green salad. Or garnish with plenty of fresh herbs – chives add a heady aroma, but really, any will work – and eat with a salty slice of ham.