The chameleon of the group is Averna, born in Sicily in 1868 and still produced from its family-run operation. The full-bodied amaro is rich and somewhat sweet, with a global array of ingredients that allow for versatility. Fresh squeezed juice can amplify its citrus tones, for example, or using it with a New Western style gin base can accentuate the herbs. "It has so many more notes to pick up on," says Carducci, "it's more user-friendly to work with."