I love swimming in rough water, usually along cliff lines and places where the waves are really banging on you. Swimming is the root of surfing. The first board you ever have is your body. Body surfing on big coastal swims incentivizes you to swim hard – because when you do, you get a ride. There's also something very meditative about these rough, open waters. The water itself demands a certain part of your attention just given the fact that you can't breathe under it. You have to be present and in the moment, and obviously that's part of surfing, too.
Credit: Jerry Driendl / Getty Images
Powered By ZergNet
Gear of the Year
102 of the Best Tools, Toys & Tech
Plus: The Woman Who Bails Out the NFL's Bad Boys
ON NEWSSTANDS NOW
Joby Ogwyn: The Man Who Fell to Earth
Life Advice from John Cleese
Sign up to receive the Men’s Journal newsletter and special offers from MJ and its marketing partners.