Salmon-family-member Arctic char is on the top of Cimarusti's list for farm-raised fish. "It has nice, light-and-thin skin that cooks up beautifully," he says. It's a fairly forgiving fish, too. "People always used to say that you can't screw up Chilean seabass – well, you should probably learn how to cook fish first and besides, that's not the top virtue a fish should have." Especially since Chilean seabass is highly unsustainable. "Arctic char is a bit more mild than most salmons, and it's a smaller fish, so that makes it a bit easier to handle when portioning or cooking at home," says Cimarusti. "I love it because the skin is almost wafer-like when you cook it right. At medium-rare to medium, it's absolutely beautiful and fairly inexpensive at around $14 or $15 a pound for fillets.
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