Cimarusti prefers wild striped bass from the East Coast, which is available year-round, can run anywhere from eight to 40 pounds, and costs about $18 a pound. "You get a nice big fish to work with," he says. "You can grill, pan roast, or poach them." Cimarusti also likes the widely available Pacific halibut, which usually comes from Alaska and is available from April to December. Cimarusti brines it in a 5 percent salt solution before cooking it, which makes it super juicy. "You can cook it less – say, to medium rare, and the fish flakes beautifully," he says. "This transforms a fish that's not terribly fatty into something that's just delicious." It costs about $20 a pound, but, as Cimarusti points out, "it's cheaper than prime steaks."
If you consider these fish expensive, Cimarusti says, you may just have to consider fish more of a treat and eat a little less of it.