Smoked Brisket Taco (Urban Rio, Plano)

Where It's From: Urban Rio, 1000 E. 14th St., Ste. 100, Plano

Why It's a Standout: This ambitious cantina in the historic Plano Ice House rubs its brisket with olive oil, caramelizes it, smokes it, infuses it with beer, and smokes it again for 10 hours. It all adds up to impossibly succulent beef, which finds its way into house-ground corn tortillas with diced pickles and jalapeño slaw. All this may sound overly precious – the owners call it "Next Mex" – but there's no arguing with true flavors.