Eddie Bauer’s move to enlist the world’s top climbers as its R&D team has certainly paid off in its flagship backpack.
By Will Cockrell
First Ascent, Eddie Bauer’s new line of technical gear and clothing designed to get them back in the alpine outfitting game, calls its Big Tahoma the “perfect pack for multi-day climbs.” But what it really means is that it’s the perfect pack for climbing Mt Rainier, the most testing mountain in the lower 48. That’s because First Ascent adopted the mountain as its unofficial R&D lab when it brought on legendary mountain guide Peter Whittaker to help develop the line — his company, RMI, summits Rainier 1,500 times a year. The result is a piece of gear that represents exactly what Whittaker himself wants in a pack.
The Big Tahoma is pitch perfect for a two- to three-day climbing trip or a slightly longer summer backpacking trip. Its 70 liters means you won’t find yourself strapping much (if anything) to the outside, yet it forces you to be appropriately judicious with what you pack in the first place. And at 3.8 lbs, it runs lighter than other packs its size, yet has everything you need (one sidezip for easy access, axe loops, crampon panel) and nothing you don’t (water bottle holders, side pouches). But most importantly, the Tahoma’s adjustable suspension system carries a heavy load of climbing gear as well as any other pack its size, sitting comfy on the hips throughout long days. [$250; firstascent.com]
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May 3rd, 2010 at 3:38 pm
Hey! Why don’t I want a water bottle holder?
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May 3rd, 2010 at 3:57 pm
I too am interested in the reasons for not having a water bottle holder. I assume it has something to do with keeping everything secure for difficult hiking, but not entirely sure. Thanks for the review.
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Will Cockrell Reply:
May 3rd, 2010 at 4:49 pm
It’s really a matter of preference, though it is a good idea to keep a pack as streamlined as possible, especially on more technical terrain.
A pack with fewer outside-attachments is less likely to catch on rocks and trees, or on your rope if you’re traveling in a rope team. It’s also a lot easier to lose a water bottle that’s attached to the outside. It’s true that reaching into your backpack every time you need a drink isn’t as convenient, but it’s worth the trade-off for most climbers.
A hydration bladder with a hose is another way to go.
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May 5th, 2010 at 7:55 am
I have one of the and actually it does have a water bottle holder.
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May 13th, 2010 at 10:00 pm
Whittaker used this pack to summit Everest multiple times… on Everest, water bottles freeze in less than 5 minutes due to the lack of air pressure and cold. Similar is true for any tall mountain. Even on Mt. Rainier, you need to melt snow to get water.
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June 13th, 2010 at 5:47 pm
A waterbottle pocket on a mountaineering pack is a no no. Like others have mentioned above, you want your back to be streamlined. But more importantly, a lost water bottle that has popped out of your outer pocket, becomes a deadly object when it picks up speed on its descent, and hits other climbers who are lower down the mountain. It is no different than the rockfall that climbers accidently kick down.
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