Genever and Old Tom
In the beginning, all gin was Dutch and had a malty, scotch-like flavor because it was made with a pot-stilled grain spirit — essentially unaged whiskey. Genever never went out of style in the Netherlands, and now it's being made in the U.S. with intriguing results, notably Pittsburgh's Wigle's Ginever, which goes perfectly well with soda water for a highball or in a genever old-fashioned. The other throwback category being revived is Old Tom gin, a nebulously defined style that was sometimes aged, sometimes sweetened, but generally had a softer kick than the London drys that came later. The current crop, including an Old Tom from Brooklyn's Greenhook Ginsmiths, reflects that variety — and is, unlike most gins, not clear. Most perform well straight or on the rocks or in drinks like the Martinez (above).
- 1½ oz Old Tom gin
- 1½ oz Carpano Antica Formula vermouth
- ¼ oz Cointreau
- 1 dash Angostura bitters
Stir over ice; strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.