The Inside Line on the City’s Gold-Medal Places to Eat, Drink, and Play.
By Diane Selkirk
As you form your plan of attack for the Winter Olympics, know this: The competitive events are in three locales that offer very different experiences. Vancouver — the cultural hub — houses ice events, while alpine races are in the skiing mecca of Whistler. Richmond, home to speedskating, is party central. But bundle up: Temps hover around freezing. (Best grab the hot souvenir: the red mittens.)
The Cultural Center: Vancouver
This metropolis of 2.1 million is one of the largest cities to host the Winter Olympics. The urban setting means that after you take in live hockey or short-track speedskating, you can choose among a huge selection of pubs and restaurants to celebrate with boisterous Vancouverites. (If you’ve never witnessed a curling match with a partisan crowd, you really haven’t lived.)
DRINKING
Yaletown, an upscale neighborhood with varied eateries, is flanked by celebration sites where huge television screens broadcast medal-winning runs and live bands entertain the masses. But if you’re looking for a low-key scene, head to nearby Gastown, where some of the city’s best pubs are found. Favorites include the Alibi Room (alibi.ca), with 25 taps pouring the region’s best craft brews, and the Pourhouse (pourhousevancouver.com), where bartender Jay Jones offers up a Gold Fashioned that proves maple syrup is even better in a cocktail than on pancakes.
EATING
Refuel (refuelrestaurant.com), in the hip neighborhood of Kitsilano, emphasizes local food at a great price. Executive chef Robert Belcham can tell you about the organic farm that provided your slow-cooked pork or which fisherman caught your coho (most entrées are $20 or less). Or stay downtown and slide up to the circular raw bar in the new 265-seat Coast restaurant (coastrestaurant.ca) for the signature seafood platter ($27 per person) of superfresh prawns, crab, oysters, and fish.
EXPLORING
The Cultural Olympiad, an arts festival featuring more than 600 concerts and performances, includes a celebration of native son Neil Young and a number of comedy shows (vancouver2010.com).
INSIDER TIPS
Click here to check out Vancouver mayor Gregor Robertson’s advice on what to do in his city.
The Mountain Experience: Whistler
Seventy-five miles down the road in Whistler, the party has been 50 years in the making (the ski hill was founded with the goal of hosting the ’68 games). The cobblestoned streets of the pedestrian village will be hopping with six sites featuring bands and live events displayed on giant screens.
EATING
For hearty fare (including a killer corned beef and cabbage) and a post-event brew, check out the Dubh Linn Gate (dubhlinngate.com). Or, for upscale dining, head to the Bearfoot Bistro for chef Melissa Craig’s tasting menu. It includes local ingredients (ruby trout), exotic imports (wagyu beef ), and homemade ice cream (from $92; bearfootbistro.com).
EXPLORING
Bring your skis and boards. More than 90 percent of the terrain is open, but with all eyes on the games, the slopes won’t be crowded. Or mush your own rowdy team of Alaskan racing huskies on a three-hour excursion through the Soo Valley — it’s a particularly Canadian way to experience Whistler’s wilderness ($159; whistlerdogsledding.com).
INSIDER TIP
Canadian ski team member Robbie Dixon, who grew up skiing Whistler, recommends the village and taking a gondola ride up the mountains. “Don’t miss the Peak2Peak strung between Whistler’s and Blackcomb’s summits,” he says. “You’ll walk away awed.”
If Whistler’s mountains seem too crowded for your liking, click here to see our recommendations for BC’s best alternative ski areas.
The Party Central: Richmond
The BC city that’s host to speedskating is also home to the most talked about party venue: the Holland Heineken House, a two-week, nonstop bacchanalia that’s so popular, the Dutch contingent had toannex the local hockey rink, which can hold thousands of people. (Skaters can still enjoy a nearby outdoor rink that will also feature ice sculptures and fireworks.) Set in the heart of Richmond’s celebration site (called the O Zone), Holland House is just a 10-minute walk from the train station.
EATING
The neighborhood around the O Zone boasts several hundred Asian restaurants, such as Posh (303-posh.com), which serves an all-you-can-eat sukiyaki hot pot. Or head to Fisherman’s Terrace in Aberdeen Centre for the popular dim sum brunch, which includes har gow, siu mai, and ha churn.
EXPLORING
On a sunny day, head out to the neighborhood of Steveston to bike the dikes and stroll the docks. Stop in at Pajos for some of the freshest fish-and-chips going (pajos.com). Or, if you’re seeking inner peace after Olympic-size overindulging, visit the International Buddhist Temple (buddhisttemple.ca) for some welcome tranquility.
INSIDER TIP
Richmond is home to the airport everyone will be using and the Vancouver Airport Authority predicts it will be overwhelmed by the March 1 mass exodus. If your flight is delayed, finish up your visit with a final microbrew at the seaplane terminal’s Flying Beaver Bar & Grill (markjamesgroup.com/fyingbeaver.html).
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February 9th, 2010 at 11:30 am
“But bundle up: Temps hover around freezing.”
Diane, just what have you been smoking? Or rather, what have you been using to cover your eyes from every weather report out of Vancouver?
“Temps hover around freezing”??? In the organizers’ dreams, perhaps.
Temperatures are hovering around 10C or 50F. In other words, save the bundling up for Washington DC or New York City. If you’re coming to Vancouver, bring your shorts, a light sweater and light rainproof jacket.
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February 9th, 2010 at 12:00 pm
Great article!
As a fellow Canuck and writer, I think it’s important to point out to Truth B Known that articles are often assigned MONTHS before they’re published. It’s possible that Diane researched and wrote this article in October (or earlier) to have it published in the February issue. There is no way she could have known that there would be a warm front rolling in.
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February 9th, 2010 at 12:45 pm
Hey, Truth. Last night the temperature was about one degree C. That’s hovering around zero in my books. My outdoor thermometer says it’s plus 4 at the moment. Not quite shorts weather for me.
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February 9th, 2010 at 3:41 pm
Gastown is NOT a low key place to grab a drink, it is one the most featured tourist attractions in Vancouver.
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February 9th, 2010 at 6:11 pm
Great tips. Two of these were my favs on our last trip out (Pourhouse - great pate and Pajos) so we’ll try some of these.
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