Know Your Cuts
Sirloin: Tender and flavorful, best cut into smaller steaks and served with a sauce.

Rib eye: Full of flavor because of proximity to the bone, good for impressing VIPs

Burgers: Mostly ground shoulder chuck. Toss in some caramelized onions for moisture

Skirt: Thin and delicate, good for fajitas or slicing onto a salad

Since grass-fed beef is naturally leaner, feel free to choose flavorful, fattier cuts. Leaner beef is best cooked rare and medium rare. Lightly coat a room temperature steak with olive oil, sear it, then finish over lower heat until the top bleeds. Let it rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Beef: The New Health Food?
In the age of mad cow disease, you can still enjoy a tasty steak without fear, and without blowing your diet. New, leaner beef is on the rise, and here's how to get it -- and grill it -- for your next cookout.

There seems to be no end to the attacks on our beloved backyard grill. First experts tell us that those delicious, juicy steaks are a top contributor to heart disease. Next they say a rare burger could harbor deadly E. coli bacteria. Then, this spring, the U.S. confirmed a third case of domestic mad cow, this time in Alabama.

But don't put away your tongs yet. You can still enjoy a safe steak -- especially if it's from grass-fed beef. Mounting research shows that cows fed a natural diet of grass produce beef with less overall fat, less saturated fat, and fewer calories: A six-ounce grass-fed steak can have 100 fewer calories than one from a grain-fed animal. If you eat an average quantity of beef (66.5 pounds a year, guys), switching to grass-fed will save you 17,733 calories annually. Without making any other changes to your diet, you could shed five pounds. No willpower required.

The Union of Concerned Scientists (UCS) confirmed the comparative health benefits of grass-fed beef this March. In the most comprehensive study to date, it asserted that in addition to being lower in saturated fat and calories, grass-fed beef contains more omega-3 fatty acids than meat from grain-fed animals. (Omega-3s are the "good fats" commonly found in fish. They help reduce the risk of high blood pressure and heart disease as well as depression and possibly even Alzheimer's.) Sixty percent of the fatty acids in grass are omega-3s. Meanwhile, studies provided by grass-fed beef advocates show that the longer cows spend eating grass, the more omega-3s remain in the meat.

Grass-fed beef is also higher in other potentially good fats called conjugated linoleic acids, or CLAs. Early studies suggest that CLAs could be miracle agents that do everything from encouraging weight loss to preventing cancer. And though CLAs are found in all meat, grass-fed cows have three times as many as grain-fed.

But how does grass-fed beef taste? To this day, all "prime" beef -- the ultimate steakhouse decadence -- is finished on grain to ensure that the meat is properly marbled with fat. And if juiciness is your primary concern, grain-fed's the way to go. "Both types of beef are rich in what beef's good at delivering: protein, zinc, iron, and B vitamins," says Mary K. Young, nutrition director of the National Cattlemen's Beef Association. "Flavor and tenderness are a matter of personal preference."

For many years even advocates admitted that grass-fed meat was leaner, and, therefore, less immediately appealing than its fattier counterpart. But as grass-fed ranchers learn more about which breeds do well on grass -- old English breeds such as Black Angus, Red Angus, and Hereford, all raised on grass for thousands of years -- the tenderness and flavor is improving.

That's what Sarah Stegner, the chef-owner of Prairie Grass Café in Chicago, learned last fall when Tallgrass Beef Company, a boutique Kansas ranch, sent samples. Part of Chicago's Green City Market, which sells only products from sustainable farms, Stegner is the first to admit that she goes out of her way to use naturally raised food. But, she says, "in the end, it's about what tastes good. And I was blown away by the flavor."

Finding lean beef requires knowing your terms. "A lot of people seek out the 'organic' label, but that only means that cows are fed organic grain," says Jo Robinson, creator of eatwild.com, a grass-fed info site, and author of Pasture Perfect. "The healthiest beef is 100 percent grass-fed."

Sadly, you're unlikely to find grass-fed beef at your local grocer. The majority of grass-fed suppliers are small ranchers (see below) who sell to gourmet stores and big families. Case in point: Maple K Farms in Colfax, Washington, sells only sides and quarters -- a minimum of 100 pounds. Sound crazy? The farm has a multiyear waiting list.

Suppliers are beginning to sell smaller quantities online, however. Tallgrass Beef and others now ship packs of steaks and burgers overnight. And although you pay a premium, when it means you can eat lean without giving up red meat, grass-fed beef is a bargain.


Where to Get Your Grass-fed Beef

American Grass-Fed Beef
In business since 1992, this Missouri ranch offers dry-aged rib eyes, tenderloin, and even grass-fed-beef dog food (866-255-5002, americangrassfedbeef.com).

Burt's Beef
Based in Alabama, this family farm ships its grass-fed steaks once a week. Orders for more than $50 get free shipping (866-407-2333, burtsbeef.com).

GrassRoots Meats
Like many smaller ranches, GrassRoots Meats sells whole sides, halves, and quarters. But you can also get custom packages of filet, sirloin, and rib eye (800-681-2260, grassrootsmeats.com).

Tallgrass Beef
TV journalist Bill Kurtis loved grass-fed beef so much he started his own ranch. Tallgrass offers steak samplers as well as a weekend grill kit, which includes burgers and kebabs (877-822-8283, tallgrassbeef.com).

For a full list of producers, visit eatwild.com. A local producer can offer fresher, tastier meat than one that has to ship its product thousands of miles to you.


By: Jane Black
Photograph by: Beth Galton
(July 2006)


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