CULEBRA
Discover a Beach
On the northern end of the tiny island of Culebra, I was told, is a stretch of beach so untouched that it feels like you’ve stepped back to when the Caribbean was unspoiled by Jet skis and resorts.
I’d already spent a day on Playa Flamenco, where my only companions are a few locals hawking empanadas and the only obstruction is a half sub-merged graffiti-covered tank, a leftover from when U.S. Navy ran bombing drills here.
So armed with a crude map I head for the supposedly virginal Playa Brava. The trail is only a couple miles long, but it’s slow going dodging the cat-size iguanas, stray chickens, and massive beehives. After an hour the forest gives way to a horseshoe-shaped stretch of white sand and translucent water that’s so comically postcard-perfect I laugh out loud. It’s perfect. For the rest of the day I feel like I’m the first person to discover this unknown land. — Brendan Spiegel
Trip Planner
How to Get There: Culebra is part of Puerto Rico, so there’s no passport needed for U.S.
citizens. Take a jittery 30-minute flight from San Juan on one of Air Flamenco’s 10-seat puddle jumpers or an equally bumpy ferry ride from the eastern port city of Fajardo (airflamenco.net).
Where to Explore: Ocean Safari rents kayaks and arranges water transport to Culebra’s secluded cays and uninhabited surrounding islands (787-379-1973).
What to Bring: When visiting any beach besides Playa Flamenco, stock up on fried pork sandwiches in Dewey, Culebra’s only town, before heading out for the day.
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February 22nd, 2010 at 5:22 pm
Great article – I’d never heard of a couple of these!
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