The small San Francisco brand Endless Ammo perfectly mixes a Bay Area sensibility (local manufacturing, a tight fit) with a military aesthetic (tough materials, hard lines) to create singular shirts and jackets that warrant a double take. Founded by former soldier James Rhoades – yes, if you take the "a" out of his last name, you've got War Machine – the company describes its clothes as "mission-oriented," provoking a simple question: What is the mission? If it's looking good in a medium-weight fall shirt, we're ready to call it a success.
The first thing everyone notices about the Garrison Shirt, EA's take on a tailored button-down, is that the left breast pocket looks odd. The F-Stop patch pocket, patented by the company, is an urban reimagining of the shell pockets common to hunting jackets – which isn't to say this shirt is designed to bear arms. Though slightly surprising at first, the patch pocket evens out the more normal pocket on the left side and provides what is otherwise a simple shirt with a bit of designer flash. Also, almost oddly ideal for business cards.
If unique storage is the most obvious virtue of the Garrison, the most impressive is its sturdy construction. An elastic band runs down the length of the shirt, reinforcing the buttons and making sure it falls straight. The stitching is tight verging on stiff, but – like the crisp fabric – breaks in after a few wears as the shirt relaxes, becoming a bit less mission-oriented and a bit more Mission District. [$90; endlessammo.com]