Men's Journal

Hammocks, carnitas, and fresh fish tacos are just a few of the indulgences dotting the path of the world’s finest agave trek

By Jason Fine

The best way to get to the Tequila region, located in the state of Jalisco, is through Guadalajara, Mexico’s second-largest city. Stay a day or two — it’s a beautiful city of amazing contrasts, with tree-lined colonial plazas where mariachis gather to play old songs around the corner from super-trendy modern restaurants and high-tech clubs. The late-night taco stands are the best in Mexico, and the crafts shopping in the traditional market districts of Tlaquepaque and Tonolo is like nowhere else. Stay at the Villa Ganz, a tiny jewel in the Zona Rosa with spectacular colonial-style rooms, some with hammocks overlooking the lush gardens. Owners Sally and Klix know their tequila, too — and they stock great stuff in the honor bar out back by the roaring outdoor fireplace. Villaganz.com

From Guadalajara, it’s an easy hour drive to the town of Tequila, through arid farmlands under the shadows of the volcanic mountains. In Tequila, tours are available of the big three distilleries — Jose Cuervo, Herradura and Sauza — but you’ll have to make appointments to see the smaller, specialized tequila makers like Fortaleza. There’s plenty of great people watching and shopping in the shady plaza near the church. Behind the church, don’t miss the old-school market and food court, with local specialties like lengua (tongue) tacos and menudo. A great place to stay is in the deluxe bungalows on the Casa Noble plantation, where you can take a moonlight tour of the distillery and even work in the fields for the day — not to mention sample the finest tequila in the land. Casanoble.com

To the east of Guadalajara are the rugged agricultural mountain towns of the Highlands region – Atotonilco, Tepatitlan and Arandas. Most experts believe this is where the best tequila is made. Unlike Tequila, which is geared toward tourists, this is the Wild West: It takes a more adventurous traveler to discover these places. Both Atotonilco and Arandas are scrappy farm towns built around massive churches, with donkeys and horses sharing the roads with cars. Most of the distilleries are hidden behind gates and not open to tourists, but you can make contact with any of the big distilleries – Don Julio, Cazadores, El Tesoro – to arrange tours, or just wander the friendly towns and sample tequila at the cantinas. There are several no-frills hotels in downtown Arandas – Hotel Jagua is both clean and cheap. The El Dorado taco joint on the main square is fantastic, and don’t miss the fruit stands in the square with incredible fresh watermelon, mango, pineapple and papaya. When you go to Arandas, do not miss Carnitas Jaime – a sprawling roadside joint specializing in all kinds of fried pork and other delicious local specialties, as well as walls lined with hundreds of locally produced tequilas. And if you get sick of tequila, check out Cuba Libre, a great rum bar owned by a Cuban painter just off the main square. Hoteljagua.com.mx; jaliscomexico.com/mx/eng

No trip to Jalisco should skip the spectacular coastline around Puerto Vallarta, a quick flight or half-day’s drive from Guadalajara. The Garza Blanca Resort is a perfect upscale retreat after several days in the mountains, with lush grounds, spectacular infinity pools, and a fantastic restaurant, Blanca Blue, that also features one of the finest collections of rare tequilas in the country. The other place not to miss in the region is the Sayulita Fish Taco tequila bar, run by Mark Alberto, a transplanted Californian who runs the joint (do not miss his fried fish tacos!) and recently opened a tiny, sweaty, heavenly tequila bar next door with more than 400 varieties. SFT is located in the laid-back surf town of Sayulita, an hour north of Vallarta – a great place to catch some waves and learn more than you’ll ever want to know about tequila. Garzablancaresort.com; sayulitafishtaco.com