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August 2004 ~ Volume 13 / Number 7

FEATURES
Afghanistan, Here We Come! | 68
Remote? Yes. Beautiful? Yes. The perfect getaway? Um, no. But that didn't stop a brave new company, Travel Afghanistan, and a small band of particularly intrepid adventurers from diving into the chaos of post-Taliban Afghanistan this spring. PLUS: Want even more adventure? Visit Iraq. BY AIDAN HARTLEY

The MJ American Soldiers Poll | 74
We know what the politicians and the pundits think. But what do the soldiers on the front lines think of the Iraq war, Abu Ghraib, and the presidential election? We surveyed the troops to get their side of the story. BY DAVID ENDERS

The 100 Best Websites for Guys | 76
Forget Google: We've searched the Web and found everything from the ridiculous (carstuckgirls.com) to the sublime (kungfucinema.com).

Olympic Action | 82
Sex, booze, and rock 'n' roll: Yes folks, the Olympic Village is the best VIP club in the world -- and the condoms are free. BY PAUL HOCHMAN

Step into Liquid | 88
Jump in with America's top swimmers as they prepare for what's sure to be one of the most dominant U.S. performances in Olympic history. BY P.H. MULLEN

COVER STORY
The Joy of Six | 60
As he guns for an unprecedented sixth victory in the Tour de France, Lance Armstrong faces more challenges than ever: his age, his health, even scrutiny of his relationship with Sheryl Crow. Here's why he'll win anyway. PLUS: MJ's guide to watching the Tour. BY JOHN WILCOCKSON

ADVENTURE
The Ultimate Guide to Montana The top fly-fishing spots, the most scenic mountain trails, the gnarliest kayaking rivers. We've got the best of Big Sky Country this summer. PLUS: Where to recharge after a hard day outdoors. 20
News Two sherpas break Everest climbing records; a 15-year-old fights off a 400-pound brown bear -- with his fists; and more. 35
Stranded! Being left behind by a scuba boat is a diver's worst nightmare. Dan Carlock survived to tell the tale. 39
America's Newest Rock Star Tommy Caldwell earns a place in history with his free-climb of El Capitan's sheer Dihedral Wall. 42

PEAK PERFORMANCE
How to Get into Olympic Shape Want speed? Endurance? The perfect all-around workout? We've got all three -- and more -- with training programs from gold medal favorites Michael Phelps, Tom Pappas, and Andre Ward. 45
Paging Dr. Bob Our resident physician answers questions on caffeine addiction, excessive sweating, and the link between oral sex and cancer. 58

STYLE
Suit Yourself Getting the perfect fit in a suit comes down to following a few simple rules. 96

GEAR GUIDE
Ultralight Backpacking Equipment The latest hiking and camping gear sheds some pounds. PLUS: Animal Planet's Jeff Corwin tells us his favorite outdoor spots around the world. 108
Boogie Boards Must-have gear for the summer's hottest sport. 112
High-Tech Kayaks A new breed of plastic boats offers the versatility of composite models, minus the cost. 114
Gold Medal Gear You too can get some of the cutting-edge equipment athletes will be using in Athens. 118

MISC.
Real Heroes Stephen Thompson makes a dramatic waterborne rescue after a boater goes overboard into the freezing Ipswich River. 132
Mail 14
Contributors 16


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