FEATURES
Mountain Madness | 48
He's the greatest mountaineer of our time, but 35 years after his brother's mysterious death on Nanga Parbat, Reinhold Messner is still struggling to clear his name -- and his conscience. BY CHIP BROWN

ON THE COVER
Pirate of the Caribbean | 54
He had his first number one album six months ago, and his second novel just hit the bookstores. But despite his charmed life, Jimmy Buffett has never stopped searching for that elusive, untouched piece of paradise. plus: An exclusive excerpt from the new book, A Salty Piece of Land. BY BOB SHACOCHIS

Your Own Piece of Paradise | 60
Mexico! The Bahamas! Fiji! Buying land abroad could be your quick ticket to paradise. The secret? Knowing where to look and how much to pay. BY JEFF SPURRIER

Surf + Protect | 68
Their office is the beach, their view is the ocean, but their work is intense. Meet the men of the San Diego Lifeguard Service, who rescue 6,000 people a year. BY DAVID HOCHMAN

The Man Who Flew Too High | 76
Every woman wanted him, and every man wanted to be him. Now, with The Aviator coming to theaters, it's time to rediscover the young Howard Hughes. A journey into the high-flying years of an American icon. BY JONATHAN MILES

ADVENTURE
The River Wild Rafting Class V rapids not insane enough for you? Try careening down a river headfirst on a plastic sled. It's called sledging -- and it's New Zealand's latest adventure craze. 14
The Ultimate Guide to Hawaii Killer surf. Rumbling volcanoes. Hiking, fishing, diving, kayaking...and enough sun to keep you outdoors every day of the year. The greatest guide to the greatest place, America's own tropical paradise. PLUS: Paul Theroux on the blissful buzz of Hawaii, the place he's happy to call home. 18
Cars Does the Dodge Magnum RT -- a 21st-century power wagon for guys -- live up to its hype? We ran it from the desert to the High Sierra on California's Highway 395 to find out. 34

PEAK PERFORMANCE
The Michael Phelps Swimming Workout From the man who won six golds in Athens comes a revolutionary fitness program for the rest of us. Grab your goggles and Speedo and dive into the fountain of youth. 39
Paging Dr. Bob Our in-house doc gives you a new hangover cure that works, advice on acclimating for your ski vacation, and the best way to treat joint pain. PLUS: Dr. Bob picks his favorite energy bars. 46

STYLE
Diving Watches Built to withstand the pressures of the abyss, these timepieces still manage to look sharp above sea level. 74

GEAR GUIDE
The 25 Best Outdoor Stores in America Looking for that rare Italian road bike? A perfect subzero sleeping bag? The one-of-a-kind handmade flyrod? Look no further than the country's best stores for adventure gear. PLUS: The best online stores and mail-order catalogs. 82

MISC.
The Record Book Emmanuel Coindre rows across the Atlantic Ocean -- twice; Ginge Fullen aims to top the highest points in all 53 African countries; two Americans blaze the 1,800-mile West Coast Trail; and the first great white in captivity. 110
Mail 10
Contributors 13