Not all climbing shoes are created equal, so we donned the newest pairs to find out which made us feel like Spider-Man.
By Aaron Gulley
Photos by Michael Pirrocco
Mammut Samurai:
If you sprend your days scaling overhangs, you need the Samurai, a brawny banana of a shoe. In a 30-foot cave at our local basalt crag, we loved how it molded itself to protrusions and edges like plastic wrap. The asymmetric lacing sucks the shoe in tightly, while the deep heel cup and heel rubber channel power into the big toe. It’s also nice that one of the best values comes from oft-exorbitant Switzerland. [$140; mammut.ch]
Five Ten Project:
Five Ten originated the high-friction rubber sole in 1986, and now it has developed a formula called stealth mystique that’s just as sticky but more durable. as a result, the project’s soles can be almost half as thick as other shoes’. Combined with the unlined leather upper, this makes the sensitive slipper perfect for precise bouldering or sport routes. We just wish it had a second Velcro strap for a more secure fit. [$145; fiveten.com]
Scarpa Force:
Scarpa is the Ferrari of climbing shoes, but the Force is more of a honda accord. built on a flat sole for comfort, the shoe still edged and smeared well on the pebbly faces and slabs of phoenix’s Queen creek canyon, thanks to a unique rand system that wraps under the instep to the outside of the foot. but the Force’s stiff sole and lack of fit adjustments (another strap, please) make it feel clunky on technical terrain. [$125; scarpa.com]
Millet OKTO II
The laces are short, the top webbing eyelet is fiddly, and the heel pulls should be beefier, but those are really minor issues given how well the okto climbs. Though this mildly down-cambered shoe excels on steep terrain, digging into limestone roofs at Jacks canyon in arizona, it still holds its own in most situations. as high-end shoes become more specialized, it’s nice to find a single, affordable pair that does it all. [$110; milletusa.com]
La Sportiva TC Pro
To most climbers, three-quarter shoes may as well be moon boots, but the sleek Tc pro will earn converts. Unlike many high-tops, it’s built for precision, with a low-profile lacing system and a down-turned toe for edging control. co-designed by legend Tommy caldwell for the type of big-wall free climbs he pioneered, the La Sportiva is a specialty tool that excels on granite — which explains why it costs a premium. [$170; sportiva.com]
Bouldering After Work
Most cities have nearby sites for getting in a happy-hour climb. Here are Five.
Matthews/Winters Park, Denver:
Millennium Boulder, on a hillside not far from Interstate 70, is a square-cut block of pebbly sandstone that hosts about a dozen quality problems, including the deceptively simple Ghost Dance (V6).
Mickey’s Beach, San Fransico:
Ring Mountain in Marin is closer, but nothing soothes like climbing near the waves. If traffic is light, you’ll be slapping sandstone edges beachside within 40 minutes of leaving your Financial District Office.
Central Park, New York City:
Rat Rock, a squat stretch of of granite in the park’s southwest corner, is loaded with crimpy traverses. Farther north sits the more difficult Wildstyle (V12), a direct line up the overhanging Matterhorn Boulder.
Kraft Boulders, Las Vegas:
Skip paying an entry fee at Red Rock. Tucked in the hills east of the park, Kraft’s edgy blocks and blobs hide hundreds of problems, such as the must-try V7 traverse on Monkey Bar Boulder - all free.
Boat Rock, Atlanta:
Boat Rock’s egg-shaped boulders were saved from development when the Southeastern Climbers Coalition bought the 7.8-acre site southwest of the city. Blank aretes, blunt prows, and smooth faces reward power and smearing.
This article originally appeared in the June 2009 issue of Men’s Journal
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