Bethany Hamilton doesn’t paddle in circles
Bethany Hamilton is simply amazing. I spent some time with her on the North Shore of Oahu this past March and was blown away by her surfing. We surfed Rocky Point one day when the swell was kinda north and the current was just ripping down the beach and toward Gas Chambers. I was paddling non-stop and getting flogged by big sets while Bethany kinda chilled and swooped into the biggest set waves. It looked effortless. It got me to thinking, “How does she do that?” So on a windy day at Rocky Point, former TransWorld SURF intern turned filmmaker Aaron Lieber and I sat down with Bethany and asked her exactly how she does what she does…her answers may surprise you!—Justin Coté
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