The next step
For new climbers, finger strength should come from spending time on the wall – adding isolated finger training prematurely will often lead to an injury. But once an intermediate climber’s primary limiting factor is finger strength, hangboards offer targeted training and an easy at-home option. Hangboards like the classic Metolius Simulator ($80) come with great workouts included.
Key hangboard tips:
- Always warm up before isolated finger training.
- Always use an open-hand position (not using your thumb; knuckles never closing below 45 degrees).
- Never passively hang – engage shoulders and slightly bend elbows.
- Stop isolated finger training at the first sign of finger pain!