“I find mole to be fascinating, baroque, laborious and complex expression, capable of fusing endless elements into new flavor. Like in music: you don’t hear the instruments separately, you hear just the mole song as an integrated thing you enjoy. It’s a celebration dish,” says Chef Enrique Olvera of Mexico City’s Pujol.
“Most people buy their mole at mercados, says Olvera, as a paste that you fix at home up to your liking, but, for special occasions, weddings or birthdays, its normally made from scratch. “I learned to make mole from Chef Ricardo Muñoz. It was very intimidating, because of all the tradition and history behind it. And I have always thought if you cannot add any value to a traditional recipe, you better not touch it. People eat it with chicken, a red meat…. As a sauce that complements a main protein. For us in Pujol, since mole is a universe itself, we present it alone, with fresh tortillas on the side. That way, we invite you to enjoy something as complex as mole, with no distractions,” says Olvera.
And each mole tells a story, of complexity, and variety — like these spins some expert chefs have shared with us.
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