You've likely had your share of rosés already this summer – and if we were to venture a guess, the majority were from from France, Spain, and Italy. It's not surprising: The finest rosés tend to come from these countries, notably the Provence region of France; they exude warmth and sunshine, but they are also crisp and thirst-quenching, which is exactly what one wants from a rose.
There are lots of New World rosés, too, but whether from California, Australia, or Chile, they are often too heavy — they taste like red wines masquerading as rosés, and they don’t offer nearly the same refreshment that the better European bottles deliver. But there are exceptions, and the Mulderbosch Vineyards rosé, from South Africa, is one of them. Mulderbosch is probably South Africa’s best known winery and has long been a source of quaffable, gently priced wines. A few years ago, Charles Banks, a California venture capitalist who specializes in wine, bought Mulderbosch, and under his ownership, quality has been steadily rising, a point underscored by the 2013 Mulderbosch Vineyards Rose ($10).
The wine is made of 100 percent cabernet sauvignon, which accounts for its fairly deep color. The Mulderbosch seems kind of chunky when you first taste it, but it seems to slenderize as it glides across the palate, thanks in part to its good acidity and slight light tannic backbone. It isn’t exactly a crisp rosé, but it is a toothsome and refreshing one, and the price makes it all the more appealing. Roses are about simple pleasure, and the Mulderbosch offers just that.