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Corn whiskeys occupy a special place in the firmament of distilled alcohol. This rough-around-the-edges beverage is having a moment—a leisurely time in the sun, set off, perhaps, by a story several years ago in The New York Times.

It's somewhat improbable. It's not for the faint of heart. You see, whiskeys become easier to drink—smoother—as they age. And corn whiskey, well, it's sort of like veal—ready for the marketplace before it reaches adolescence.