Brewers Are Now Butchers, Too
The best brewpubs have great brewers—that’s a given. But many of these brewmasters now run world-class charcuterie programs, too. Earlier this year, Alex Liberati debuted Denver’s Liberati Osteria & Oenobeers, an ambitious Italian brewpub that specializes in wine-beer hybrids he calls “oenobeers,” such as an IPA infused with Oregon-grown riesling grapes, paired with homemade pastas and charcuterie, including salami, guanciale, and mortadella. Acidic beers excel at cutting charcuterie’s salty richness, a pairing perfected at Berkeley, California’s The Rare Barrel, with its aged sours served with bacon-maple rilletts. In Brooklyn, the Meat Hook, a whole-animal butcher shop, focuses on grass-fed beef used in the dry-aged burger served at its restaurant, The Meat Hook at Threes, located inside Threes Brewing. Lowcountry standout Edmund’s Oast Restaurant, in Charleston, South Carolina, makes meat-friendly brews like Baby Bubble Barbecue Beer and has a dedicated butcher, who breaks down whole hogs, turning them into sausage, ham, bacon, and even headcheese.
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