From Morels to Maitake: A Complete Guide to Cooking Mushrooms

Maitake

Sometimes called hen of the woods because their frilly ends look like feathers, maitake mushrooms are at their best when roasted. Pull apart the individual leaves; shred into ½-inch strips; toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper; and roast until brown all over. (Start checking on them after 10 minutes.) When they cool, they'll be crisp at the edges; if you close your eyes, they'll taste a little like roasted chicken skin. That makes them delicious with poultry. A crispy tangle of maitakes is also terrific with a bowl of pasta or grains.

Oyster

They look psychedelic, but oyster mushrooms taste mild, not unlike cremini, or white, mushrooms. But try this trick and they'll be like no mushroom you've ever had: Break into individual leaves, oil and salt, and roast at 375° until they surrender their moisture, 20–30 minutes. (Be careful not to burn them, and rotate the pan every few minutes in the oven to cook evenly.) You'll wind up with crisp, dark-brown chips with amazingly concentrated flavor. Toss with a salad or grains, use to garnish a sandwich, or snack on them straight.

Shiitake

If all you do is toss these into stir-fries, then you have no idea how good shiitakes can taste. In Asia, they are nearly always sold dried, because drying them intensifies their deep umami flavor. With that in mind, sauté fresh shiitakes, but cook them longer over medium heat, until their moisture evaporates and the flavor concentrates. Or try this: Stem and slice fresh shiitakes into ¼-inch pieces, season with salt, and coat with oil. Lay them on a sheet pan and roast at 350° for 15–30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until brown, dry, and crisp.

Morel

Among serious mushroom foragers, there are few prizes like the morel. Part of that may be the thrill of the hunt — their ruffled, pinecone-like shape and color serve as camouflage — but really it's due to their flavor: nutty, earthy, sweetly musky. Morels retain their chewy bite, whether added to stews or sautéed (try adding a generous splash of bourbon or cream at the end), and they pair well with sweet peas, spring onions, and other sweet, tender vegetables. They're also outstanding alongside a steak.

Chanterelle

Ask any French chef what his or her favorite mushroom is, and chances are he or she will rhapsodize about the chanterelle, especially when it's married with the other great French love, butter. Sauté them over medium heat, allowing the mushrooms to sweat a bit to bring out sweet, almost floral flavors. A less typical treatment: Get a pan (preferably cast iron) ripping hot, and throw in a scattering of chanterelles with no oil. Hard sear, letting them char in spots, then season with salt. They'll emerge with a deep, cinnamon-like funk.

How To Cook Mushrooms

Now that you've mastered the different varieties of mushrooms, here are some basic guidelines for cooking them all.

Roast

Crank the oven to 400°, cut the mushrooms into bite-size pieces; toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper; and spread in one layer on a sheet pan. Roast until well browned, 12–30 minutes, depending on the mushroom.

Hard Sear

Generously coat a sauté pan with olive oil and set over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, add mushrooms in a single layer, leaving a little room between them. Don't touch for a couple minutes, until the undersides are nicely browned. Toss and cook other sides for another couple of minutes, until brown, then season with salt and pepper.

Sauté

This is a gentler sear that yields juicier results. Follow the steps for hard searing, but after the first toss, add salt, pepper, and aromatics — say, minced garlic and/or fresh herbs — and keep tossing. The mushrooms will release their juices and begin to steam. Stir for about four minutes, until tender, and finish by folding in a small knob of butter.