Sometimes called hen of the woods because their frilly ends look like feathers, maitake mushrooms are at their best when roasted. Pull apart the individual leaves; shred into ½-inch strips; toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper; and roast until brown all over. (Start checking on them after 10 minutes.) When they cool, they'll be crisp at the edges; if you close your eyes, they'll taste a little like roasted chicken skin. That makes them delicious with poultry. A crispy tangle of maitakes is also terrific with a bowl of pasta or grains.
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