The Hemperor HPA: Meet New Belgium’s Dank New Beer

1. Why Hemp?

“Let’s face it, brewers have been trying to get cannabis-like aromas from hops for years, but it’s always missing a certain something,” says Ross Koenigs, New Belgium’s research and development brewer.

New Belgium isn’t necessarily the first to use hemp aromas and flavors in a brew—a handful of Colorado and California breweries have dabbled—but they are pioneers in their own right—especially in regard to challenging outdated laws that regulate industrial hemp production. 

“This beer has been over two years in the making, most of the time spent learning and reacting to laws that really suppress this crop’s usage,” Koenigs explains. “Flavor-wise, this [is] the beer we wanted to make, but due to misinformed laws governing the use of industrial hemp, we had to take a creative and long-winding road to get to this point.”

2. The Story Behind the Controversy

Even though there are no psychedelic components in hemp (it contains less than .3% THC), the federal law prohibits farmers from growing it in the U.S. That also means brewers can’t use hemp leaf or its flower.

To get around that hurdle, The Hemperor is brewed using hemp hearts (the meat of the hemp seed, minus the shell).

“Our base understanding is that seeds can be sterilized to a point that makes them legal for use,” Koenigs says. 

Interestingly enough, hemp’s origins and uses are pure. It can be used to pull toxins from the earth; it’s a more sustainable alternative to cotton (it doesn’t require pesticides or as much water); and in WWII there was a Hemp for Victory campaign that urged farmers to grow the crop to turn it into clothing and rope for soldiers, a New Belgium spokesperson tells Men’s Journal.

“The restrictive regulatory process around brewing The Hemperor HPA gives New Belgium the opportunity and platform to raise awareness around the social, environmental and economic benefits of industrial hemp,” the company says in a press release.

New Belgium is also partnering with GHC Inc., Willie Nelson’s family of advocacy brands to support Hemp for Victory. They’re donating $1 from every barrel of The Hemperor sold to continue the national campaign to raise awareness and promote pro-hemp legislation. 

3. How New Belgium Mimicked the Flavors of Hemp

So why do hemp and hops form the perfect marriage? They’re not just genetically connected, they also “produce similar organic aromatic compounds known as terpenes,” according to New Belgium. 

They complement one another. 

But since New Belgium couldn’t use hemp flowers or leaves to create those unmistakable floral terpenes, they relied on hemp hearts and natural plant materials to replicate that citrus, piney experience. The exact recipe is “secret sauce,” New Belgium says, but the brewing team turned to ingredients like orange peel, grapefruit, and pine sap as a springboard. 

Then they dry-hop the ale with Simcoe and experimental HBC 522 hops.  

4. What The Hemperor Tastes Like

With a 7% ABV, this light golden lager makes for easy spring drinking. 

“The hemp hearts provide a creamy mouthfeel and body to the beer, as well as contributing a spicy, herbal aroma,” Koenigs says.  

The Hemperor has an earthy perfume and sweet, slightly bitter finish.

If you’re not a fan of the IPA variety (or the smell of marijuana, for that matter), you may be turned off by The Hemperor at first. But the taste isn’t nearly as pungent as the smell.  

5. How to Get Your Hands on It

The Hemperor is available on draft April 2 with 12-ounce bottles landing on shelves throughout the nation—except Kansas, for now—on May 21.