Cooking fish whole lets the skin capture moisture while the bones impart flavor. It’s best done in a roasting pan set inside an oven — but Kinch recommends taking it one step further by sealing the whole fish inside a quick dough made from salt and egg whites, a classic Mediterranean approach. “The whites harden like cement under the heat,” he says, “making the fish cook in its own little oven.”
1 whole striped bass, 1.5 lbs‚
2 lbs, gutted but not scaled ‚
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 sprig fresh rosemary
2 sprigs fresh parsley
3 lbs coarse kosher salt
3 egg whites
1. Prepare the fish Using scissors, cut off all fins, but leave scales on. “One more layer of protection for the flesh,” Kinch says. Bundle herbs and tuck inside fish cavity with a slice of lemon.
2. Prepare the crust Put salt in a large bowl, add egg whites, and stir. “It should have the texture of wet sand,” Kinch says. Place one-third of mixture into roasting pan, forming a bed about an inch wider than the fish will be when set flat. Set fish on top, mound one-third of the remaining mixture around the sides; use the final third to cover the fish. “Then tamp the salt down with your hands, like you’re patting a sand-castle, to firm it up,” Kinch says.
3. Bake the fish Put fish in a 400Àö oven, and set a timer, figuring about 30 minutes for the first pound of fish and 7 minutes for each additional pound. Next, check doneness with a cake tester, as instructed on page 81, inserting it into the thickest part of the fish, along the spine.
4. Break the crust Hit crust all over with a hammer or the butt end of a knife. Remove in large pieces until fish is revealed. Pull off fish skin, using a fork to loosen it along the spine and peel toward the belly.
5. Debone the fish Start by removing the fish’s topside fillet. Use a knife to make a lengthwise incision down the centerline, from the gills to the tail, cutting that upper fillet in half. Use a spatula to lift each half away from the bones and over to a clean plate. Next, take hold of the tail and lift upward to remove the backbone, ribs, and head in one piece. The second fillet should now be exposed below. Again, use a spatula to transfer it to the clean plate, leaving the skin behind.
6. Plate and serve Spoon a sauce over the fish. Kinch recommends a simple tomato-basil salad — heavy on extra-virgin olive oil, with a splash of red wine vinegar — but anything from salsa to guacamole to coleslaw will work.
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