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What, precisely, constitutes great fried chicken? Dale Talde, the chef behind a trio of popular Brooklyn restaurants, whose double fried chicken has transformed him into a poultry titan, cites three simple — but frequently unmet — components: "If it's fried, it's gotta be crunchy. If it's chicken, it's gotta be moist. Like all food, it has to be seasoned correctly. If it's meant to be hot, it has to be hot," he said. "Those things never change."