Everything You Need for Fly Fishing

Rod

Unlike spin fishing — in which the weight of a heavy lure propels its trajectory — the fly fisherman uses a weighted line to cast a nearly weightless fly. So graphite rods come in varying lengths and weights (from 0-14) to accommodate the corresponding weights of line. Weight rods (0 to 4) can be used for tiny fish (like panfish) while a size 14 is made to accommodate big saltwater game like marlin.

For most freshwater fishing, Rosenbauer suggests splitting the difference and going with a rod in the 4- to 5-weight range that is 9 feet long (the typical size that works best for most circumstances). “Four or five is standard for trout and pan fish,” he says. “If you’re gonna put bass in the mix, and some very light saltwater fish, you might want to go with a 6-weight. You can still fish for trout with a 6-weight, too.” Just be sure you actually test out the rod first. “You can’t tell much from looking at a rod,” he says. “Whether you’re out with a guide or you’re in a store with a buddy, you want to try the rod first. You don’t buy a car without driving it. A good fly shop will have lots of rods available, and you’ll be able to go outside somewhere and test it. If a fly shop doesn’t have the ability to let you test out a rod, then I wouldn’t go there.” We recommend looking for a light rod that can still deliver strength and pinpoint accuracy, such as the Orvis Helios 2. [$800; amazon.com]

Reel

In fly fishing, the quality of your rod is more important than your reel. So just figure out how much you want to spend and buy one that matches the weight of your line. “Unless you’re saltwater fishing for salmon or steelhead [in which case the heavier reel becomes more important to your overall setup], the reel is simply a line-holding device so get one that looks sexy to you,” Rosenbauer says. Our recommendation? Buy a simple, beautiful reel like this classic, the CFO reel from Orvis. [$325; amazon.com]

Line

The line is the core foundation of your rig — its weight determines your rod, reel, and which type of fish you’re going after. Weighted fly line is used to cast the nearly weightless fly and then adjust its location on the water. It determines how far you’ll be able to cast and the weight of the fly you can use. A lighter 4-weight line used to present delicate flies to trout is thinner than a stout 9-weight line used to cast heavy shrimp imitators to saltwater fish. So buy a basic floating line that is the right match for your weight of rod. For trout fishing with a 4- or 5-weight rod, buy the matching 4- or 5-weight line. And you don’t need to go all A River Runs Through It with your casting. “Most people think you need to thrash around 100 feet of line,” Rosenbauer says, “but most fish are caught within 40 feet. It’s not hard to throw 40 feet of line.” Buy a floating line like the Intouch Rio Gold line from Rio. [$90; amazon.com]

Leader

The leader is the nearly invisible section of nylon material that connects the bulky fly line to the delicate fly. The leader is fairly heavy where it connects to the line (this is called the butt section), and then tapers down in weight and thickness until it reaches its end where you tie on the fly. The main idea here is stealth — you want the typically 9-foot-long leader to gently present the fly without spooking the fish. You want to make the fly look like it landed on the water all on its own. The leader also completes the transfer of energy from the line to the fly during your cast — it helps your line roll out and then straighten for an accurate fly presentation to the fish. You’re going to clip sections of the leader as you adjust flies so, unlike your fly line, you’ll be changing out your leader pretty regularly.

When buying a leader, keep it simple: Buy a knotless tapered nylon leader that matches your line weight. “The most critical piece and also the least expensive is the leader,” Rosenbauer says. “It’s the link between the line and your fly. I would rather have the right leader than the right fly. If you give me the right fly with a leader that’s too stiff or clunky, I’m lost.” Leaders are designated in size by ‘X’ ratings: ranging from heavy 03X leaders for saltwater game fish to 8X leaders for panfish. For trout, buy a 9-foot, 5X knotless tapered leader like the Mirage from Orvis. [$28; amazon.com]

Wading Boots

In warm weather, a pair of shorts and Tevas can usually see you through. But balancing on rocks in frigid water can be dodgy, so a good pair of wading boots is a smart investment. Resembling a pair of hiking boots, the wading boots provide traction on slippery rocks while housing your neoprene waders. (You can also wear them without waders by inserting a neoprene “sock” like this one from Simms — your feet will get wet but remain warm.) When buying, ensure the boots are lightweight and have a rubber sole (felt soles help spread invasive species and are even outlawed in some states). “You want decent support,” Rosenbauer says. “Get a pair you’re going to be comfortable wearing everyday.” We recommend a lightweight pair of boots with rubber soles that can easily transition from the trail to the river like the Simms Vapor Boot. [$170; amazon.com]

Waders

Waders fit over your body like a pair of waterproof overalls, allowing you to walk into water up to your chest without getting wet or cold. As with your wading boots, fit — and comfort — is key. “You want a pair of waterproof, breathable waders that fit,” Rosenbauer says. “Fit is critical. Fit is going to determine your comfort and durability. If they don’t fit right, they’re not going to last.” Our recommendation? Buy a pair of sturdy, breathable, and lightweight waders like the Rio Gallegos waders from Patagonia. [$500; patagonia.com]

Pack

These days, fly fishing vests are strictly for the old timers. “Wearing a vest these days pretty much just pegs you as an old guy,” Rosenbauer says. They can be clunky, hot, and weigh you down with all the gizmos hanging off your chest. Instead, opt for a lightweight, non-obtrusive lumbar waste pack. It’s kind of like a badass water-resistant fanny pack that easily holds all your gear. Speaking of which, here is what you should be packing in there in addition to your keys, phone, and wallet: a couple extra spools of tippet material for when you break off line from your leader and need to add more line (2X tippet for woolly buggers and 5X for smaller flies,) silicone powder for drying off flies, clippers, and forceps for straightening a barb or removing the hook from a fish’s mouth. Lunch, a water bottle and a rain jacket are always a good idea — but you can leave them sitting on the bank. One of the most reliable forceps out there is the 5.5-inch Hot Grip tool from Montana Fly Company ($18). For the pack, buy a comfortable, rugged one with plenty of space like the 2015 Westwater Lumbar Pack from Fishpond. [$100; amazon.com]

Flies

Wherever you’re fishing, try to find a local fly shop for intel about what patterns are working and where. Even hire a guide for the day to really get to know the river. But regardless, don’t stress out about trying to exactly match your fly to whatever’s on the water. “Trout are not the selective eaters we think they are,” Rosenbauer says. “I know this from pumping stomachs. Every time I analyze a fish’s stomach, I find all kinds of junk. Like different insects of all stages — nymphs, dries, beetles, little freshwater shrimp. Trout are opportunists. As long as the fly is in the ballpark and looks edible, they’re going to eat it.” A good range of five flies to always have on hand are a black woolly bugger, hare’s ear nymph, pheasant tail nymph, a parachute Adams dry, and a stimulator dry. The woolly bugger should be a size 8 and the rest in the 12 to 16 range. Buy a range of flies from the closest shop to your river.

Net

You don’t always need a net — but it’s a good idea to have one on hand for when you finally land that giant brown trout. Net bags used to be mostly made out of nylon, but they were abrasive to thrashing fish and tended to snag your fly. So make sure you buy a net with a rubber bag. “It’s easier on the fish and easier to get your fly out if it gets caught,” Rosenbauer says. Our recommendation? Buy a durable net with a rubber bag like the Nomad Hand Net from Fishpond. [$125; amazon.com]

Sunglasses

Vision is crucial when you’re fly fishing — so you don’t want to skimp on your eyewear. A good pair of polarized sunglasses will reduce glare while sharpening contrasts on the water, and shield your eyes from an errant fly’s hook. “You want polarized amber lenses as good as you can afford,” Rosenbauer says. “The contrast enhancement seems to help with amber lenses.” Look for a high-quality pair with an AR (anti-reflective) coating that eliminates light reflection from the front and back of the lens (cheaper plastic lens may only reflect 8 percent of light, whereas top lens can provide 100 percent protection from harmful UVA rays). “A $20 pair of polarized glasses are not going to be good fishing glasses,” Rosenbauer says. “At $50 to $75, you’re starting to get into better ones, and then you can pay more from there.” We recommend a stylish, top-of-the-line pair like the Howler Dockside glasses with ChromaPop lenses from Smith Optics. [$239; amazon.com]