I read The Seven Spiritual Laws of Success every day. The first time I read it, I was 35, depressed, and about to quit surfing. I’d always surfed with my ego—I had to get the biggest, best wave—and a lot of it was for survival.
Now I know that if I surf without expectations and have a map for making my passion my life’s plan, I’m always in the present and smiling. If I have days that don’t feel great, I didn’t read that morning.
McNamara’s first book, Hound of the Sea, debuts this month.
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