The Standout Suit
For the spring/summer season, many of the tailored options Mr. Porter offers from their distinguished roster will be more relaxed. So much so that you will increasingly see suits dressed down with t-shirts or lightweight knits and sneakers — as well as the more usual and formal shirt and tie and dress shoes.
“As part of this rise of what is being called ‘athletic luxury’,” says Dan Rookwood, U.S. editor of MrPorter.com. “Suiting is also being made from more technical fabrics which don’t crease as easily and have some stretch for comfort.”
Street style guru Nick Wooster recently introduced his first line with a fresh new interpretation of suiting under his own name with Italian tailoring brand Lardini.
“There’s a lovely army green cotton summer suit with a cropped trouser that I’ve got my eye on for the New York summer,” mentions Rookwood. The first bespoke suit Mr. Rookwood had made was from Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row. Their ready-to-wear has never been better than it is right now thanks to the vision of creative director Jason Basmajian.
Gieves has a very traditional military heritage. Today, they are still the makers of uniforms for the upper echelons of the British armed forces. “Basmajian has softened the shoulder shape and taken some of the formality out of the suiting,” Rookwood says. “Which has made the current incarnation of the brand so much more approachable.”
Mr. Rookwood’s go-to right now is Thom Sweeney, one of London’s more contemporary tailors.
“Their signature silhouette is really wearable,” Rookwood adds. “They do great tailored separates — a blazer and separate smart trousers — and I also like their shirts which have a distinctive button-down collar that perfectly accommodates a woolen tie.” [$985 from Wooster + Lardini; mrporter.com]
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